It seems fitting that a place as atmospheric as Cabo Espichel, perched on towering cliffs high above the blue-green waters of the Atlantic, would come with a mystery attached. In this isolated and desolate place, it was a mystery that seemed desperately sad and very human.
I was walking behind the Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Cabo towards the crumbling cliffs that are being slowly eroded by the giant Atlantic waves, when I saw what at first I assumed was a pile of litter tipped over the edge but not out of sight. I was silently cursing the person who had littered in such a wonderful place when I realised that some of the litter was photographs.
Closer inspection revealed that the pile of paper being buffeted by the breeze was actually several dozen intimate family photographs stretching back decades. Some of them were of weddings, birthday parties, holidays at the beach and family dinners. There were babies, children, adults. One photograph had the date 1920 written in a corner. All of them had been torn into small pieces.
Some one the pieces had been blown downwards towards the ocean, others had been blown back up to the top of the cliff. I looked at a few, arranged some and wondered to myself about who would have done this and why? Below where I stood the ocean waves provided a suitable soundtrack as they pounded into the cliffs.
Walking back towards the car park, we stopped at the lovely little cafe next to the old church buildings. I asked the woman working there about the photos and whether this was a tradition or something that happened regularly. She said she’d never heard of anything like it before, and thought it might have been the act of someone who was disappointed in love.
I don’t really accept that interpretation, the photos dated back too far, over too many generations for this to be petty revenge. So the mystery of Cabo Espichel remains unsolved – at least for now. We may have left without an answer but our next stop, the nearby Praia do Meco – an absolutely wonderful beach with a couple of very good fish restaurants on the sand – soon had us turning our thoughts to the mystery of what to have for lunch.
…and with an unsolved mystery and one last stroll on an Atlantic coast beach, our trip to Portugal came to an end. The following morning, as if the fates were telling us not to push our luck, we woke to grey skies and the rain began to pour as we drove to the airport…definitely time to head home.