Tangermünde is often referred to as one of the most beautiful small towns in Germany. It may sound like tourist board exaggeration, but this historic place in modern-day Saxony-Anhalt lives up to the hype. Approach it from the side where the small River Tanger meets the mighty River Elbe, and you are greeted by huge defensive walls with their original medieval gates that tower over the flat landscape of the North German Plain.
Walk through Rossfurth mit Elbtor or Neustädter Tor and you enter a town that has a one of the best preserved medieval centres in the country. Half-timbered houses, some more than four centuries old, line cobbled streets. Many houses have exquisite carved wooden doors, some seemingly with African or Asian motifs. The whole town is dominated by the hulking Stephanskirche, which dates to the 12th century.
The most remarkable building in Tangermünde though, is without doubt the medieval Rathaus. Dating to the 1430s, its most striking features are three gables in red and white stone, each with a circular window at the top. It’s a design I’ve seen before a bit further north in the Hanseatic League towns of Wismar, Stralsund and Lübeck. It’s no surprise that Tangermünde was also a member of that powerful medieval trading federation.
The Rathaus also comes with a memorable story, that of Grete Minde. Grete’s is a tragic but likely common 17th century story. She left the town after the death of her parents, but when her husband died she returned to claim her share of the family inheritance. Her brother and sister-in-law contested her claim and when fire destroyed much of the town in 1617, the blame was conveniently pinned on her. Found guilty at a trial in the Rathaus, she was burned at the stake.
As a member of the Hanseatic League, Tangermünde became wealthy. It’s Golden Age peaked in the 15th century and many buildings date from around this period. The town was already on the map long before that time though. Tangermünde was one of the favoured residencies of Holy Roman Emperor, Charles IV. Most famous today for his strong associations to Prague and Bohemia, he lived in Tangermünde between 1373 and 1378.
Tangermünde’s storied history officially began when it was mentioned in an 11th century chronicle. Over the last millenium history has washed over the town. Fires and wars have blighted it, but it was lucky to emerge from the Second World War largely untouched – despite a battle for control of the nearby bridge over the River Elbe. For that we should be thankful, it’s a picturesque spot – except for the car park in front of its most impressive section of medieval walls.
It’s only a couple of hours from Berlin, but somehow it had escaped our attention when we lived in the German capital. I was excited to visit. The weather the few days before was hot and sunny, so I planned some walks in the nearby countryside. Typically, when I arrived in Tangermünde it was raining and very cold. Too early to check into the hotel, I wandered the quiet streets in a persistent drizzle until the Exempel Gaststuben opened for lunch.
The traditional local food in this fabulous restaurant is made all the better by the fact that this was the old school house and the tables are old school desks. They also serve locally brewed beer known as kuhschwanz bier, or cow tail beer. Allegedly locals got the water for brewing from the River Tanger where cows would drink, their tails dragging in the water. The sightseeing improved after the rain stopped and a few cow tails had been drunk.
