Viveiro is a small, pretty and historic town sitting at the mouth of the River Landro as it enters a wide estuary into the Cantabrian Sea. It feels every inch the sleepy fishing town nestled into a sheltered inlet on Galicia’s wild and unpredictable coast. But in summer it buzzes with visitors, mostly from other parts of Spain, and a lively cultural programme. There are also plenty of good restaurants serving up the region’s famed seafood dishes.
The hot, humid weather we’d experienced in Santiago de Compostela had given way to clouds and fitful bursts of rain as we approached the coast. By the time we found a place to park and were roaming the streets searching for our apartment it was officially a damp Galician day. Thankfully, the weather relented and the sun returned as we entered a plaza in which sits Viveiro’s oldest church, the 12th century Romanesque Igrexa de Santa María.
On the square is the 17th century Convento e Igrexa das Concepcionistas, still home to a small group of nuns and features a replica of the grotto at Lourdes. We were staying nearby but whenever we passed through the pretty square neither the church or convent were open. Several of the nearby houses had wood and glass box verandas, adding to the traditional feel of Viveiro’s upper town.
There were more traditional houses as we strolled the steep, narrow lanes down the hill into the lower town and a buzzing square outside the Taberna Cornelius. We joined the noisy, joyful families eating lunch at tables in the square and ordered some food. Nearby was the Plaza Mayor, a pleasant square with cafes and restaurants, and a temporary stage that was part of the summer music festival.
The rain banished, we walked through the nearby Porta de Carlos V, one of the remaining gates from the medieval walls that once repelled pirate attacks. Outside the former walls, you find yourself stepping onto the Ponte da Misericordia, a medieval bridge crossing the estuary. On the other side you can to go straight to the wide sandy Covas Beach, or first visit the pretty Capilla de la Misericordia.
Playa de Covas is a lovely town beach. We strolled along the sand until, at the far end we arrived at The Castles, a set of jagged rock formations. The views into the estuary are magnificent. The village, if it can be called that, of Covas marks the edge of town. If you follow the coast you quickly find yourself amidst dramatic cliffs and secluded coves with sandy beaches. This coastline is utterly stunning.
We planned to visit Esteiro beach, a gorgeous sandy cove a little further around the coast, but for the moment we walked back to the town. Viveiro is small and it would be easy to see all its main sights in half a day, but it’s also a relaxed and friendly town that rewards a longer stay. Back inside its historic centre found ourselves at the Igrexa de San Francisco, a 14th-century church said to be one of Galicia’s finest pieces of Gothic architecture.
It is also home to a lovely cloister with photos from Viveiro’s Semana Santa celebrations and also houses some of the floats from the processions. We were just passing by the Taberna Cornelius again when suddenly a band with a mobile drum kit and speakers rolled into the square and started playing a set. We pulled up a couple of chairs, ordered a drink and enjoyed the free show, all part of the town’s summer music festival.
Viveiro is an attractive place, filled with pretty squares and ancient buildings that stand testament to the history the town has seen. It is the perfect base for exploring the nearby coast and the many sandy beaches. Somewhere we’ll happily return to.
