Galicia’s Costa da Morte is a place of fearsome legend and superstition, and, as the name suggests, of death. The cliffs that plunge into the frigid azure waters of the Atlantic Ocean have witnessed the sinking of hundreds of ships, large and small, during ferocious storms that batter the coast. One infamous incident took place just off Cape Finisterre in 1596, it is one of the greatest disasters in Spanish naval history.
Against a backdrop of war that pitted Spain against England, France and the Netherlands, at the end of June 1596 an English fleet captured and sacked Cadiz for two whole weeks. One of Spain’s main ports and base for its treasure fleet carrying silver and gold from the Americas, the insult could not go unanswered. King Philip II ordered a second Spanish Armada to attack England (because the first one in 1588 had gone so well).
By october the fleet was ready to sail from Vigo for England. What the sailors didn’t know was that they were sailing directly into a storm, the ferocity of which must have been terrible. Thirty eight ships sank with the loss of around 5,000 lives. It was a devastating blow that gave a strategic advantage to Spain’s enemies. The same waters in which these horrors took place were directly below the cliff top trails I was walking to reach Praia de Arnela.
On a day with little breeze, the Atlantic Ocean looked deceptively calm and tranquil. It was hard to imagine this peaceful scene as a place of death and destruction, but these waters are treacherous. The paths that cross over the cliffs make for a wonderful and beautiful hiking route, although they are very exposed. I would not want to be caught up here during bad weather, let alone in a boat on the ocean.
This stretch of coast lacks some of the drama of the section I hiked last year, where El banco más bonito del mundo, or The Best Bank of the World is found. It is still an extraordinarily beautiful place though. After crossing the length of the deserted Praia do Mar de Fóra in the early morning, the route immediately heads steeply uphill and away from all human habitation.
The route undulates (steeply), crossing a landscape of gorse and heather and through pine scented woods that offered the only shade on a hot day. As I reached the top of the first climb, there were sweeping views ahead to what looked like a radio transmitter on a distant hill. Behind Cape Finisterre and Praia do Mar de Fóra were illuminated in the morning sun. I could see fishing boats in the bays below the steep cliffs.
Descending and ascending on rough tracks, I was soon at the Cabo da Nave radio transmitter, where once again the views were spectacular. Here I met three other walkers, with the exception of a man walking a dog they were the only people I saw on the entire hike. Ahead, the route descended again before climbing back up to the top of Monte de Arnela. A path led through some woods to a small cove.
Here, a long and hot hike was rewarded as I descended to Praia de Arnela, a sheltered beach nestled between the cliffs of two headlands. This isn’t a swimming beach, powerful waves and vicious undercurrents make it too dangerous. I had the beach to myself though, so I paddled in the chilly waters and sat on the beach looking out to sea with only the crashing waves for company.
I could have stayed longer, but I had to get back to Finisterre. The route started along a narrow path that went up a rocky cliff face. It was steep going but the views were worth it. From Monte de Arnela, I took a different and slightly more shaded route through pine and eucalyptus trees before descending for a bitterly cold swim at Praia do Mar de Fóra and lunch by the harbour in Finisterre.
