There’s no doubt Bouillon is an attractive and historic town. The massive medieval castle that runs along a hilly ridge in a bend of the River Semois is as dramatic as any I’ve ever seen. There are centuries old houses and cobbled streets. The main draw though, is that it sits deep in the Ardennes in beautiful countryside. Yet, it is a hard place to love because it is overrun with cars.
What should be a peaceful area along the river, is instead a heavily trafficked road which separates tables of diners on one side from restaurants and bars on the other. This is Belgium, so people drive fast down this narrow road, their cars only centimeters from people eating. Much of the rest of Bouillon resembles a giant car park, just with a medieval castle on top.
It is incredibly short sighted. Bouillon could easily be a people friendly place. Other than the castle, the town doesn’t have much else, unless you count the pedalos that you can hire (and many people do) on the main part of the river in the town. So, why not encourage people to linger longer by making space for them over cars and tour buses? It’s bizarre.
Bouillon Castle dates to the 8th century, which makes it one of the oldest in the country and means there has been a human settlement here for at least 1,200 years. The castle was built for good reason, this was a vital strategic spot in the Middle Ages. The Lords of Bouillon became wealthy and powerful as a result. None more so than the most famous of all, Godfrey of Bouillon.
Godfrey, born in 1060, was very active in European politics (i.e. he had an army) and participated in numerous wars on the side of Holy Roman Emperor, Henry IV. He seemed to enjoy fighting. When Pope Urban II called for a crusade to ‘liberate’ Jerusalem and the Holy Lands, Godfrey sold or mortgaged his lands to participate in what would become known as the First Crusade.
Godfrey played a leading role in the capture of Jerusalem, and he woúld become the first ruler of the Kingdom of Jerusalem in 1099. It was a short reign, he died in 1100, but the crown was passed to Godfrey’s brother Baldwin. So it was, a lord from a small Belgium town became the King of Jerusalem and is buried in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.
Bouillon played a part in many other conflicts. French military genius Vauban called it “the key to the Ardennes”, so there was always someone trying to control it. The castle though, seems to have survived with little damage. Today, the town is a sleepy spot, although in summer I imagine it’s overrun by tourists. We arrived early and took a walk around the town.
It isn’t big, but there are some pleasant areas to explore. It wasn’t long before we found ourselves at the castle, the views are spectacular. On one side the whole town is laid out beneath you, on the other you can see the Semois as it meanders through wooded hills and pastureland. It really is beautiful. We decided to have lunch and then set off along the river on an afternoon walk.
The route took us on trails along the forested riverbank to a pedestrian suspension bridge about 4km down the valley. It was very peaceful apart from occasional kayak groups floating past. This was our first adventure into the Ardennes and the scenery didn’t disappoint. When we reached the bridge we stumbled into an organised walking event, and suddenly there were dozens of people.
The route back to Bouillon was a bit more elevated and offered great views to the other bank of the river. We passed by Clairefontaine Abbey in Cordemois, which is the successor abbey to one in Arlon destroyed during the French Revolution. Set up in the 1840s, the nuns live isolated from the world with just a shop open to the public. The nuns chose an enviable site for their contemplations.
We arrived at a park that runs behind Bouillon Castle, there were plenty of people having picnics and enjoying the warm weather. The views of the castle were fabulous. Crossing the Pont de Cordemois we walked over the hill to the other side of town, found a bar and ordered a glass of Godefroy Blonde, named after the first King of Jerusalem. It’s made by the Brasserie du Bocq which, ironically, is nowhere near Bouillon.
