Collioure is a beautiful and ancient town sitting on a small but dramatic bay where the Pyrenees Mountains meet the clear blue waters of the Mediterranean. It has to be one of the most captivating and picturesque places along the Mediterranean coast. Not that it doesn’t come with some cons. It’s incredibly popular with tourists and in summer it gets pretty packed, but that didn’t take away from its abundant charms.
The town is one of the true gems of the Côte Vermeille or Vermillion Coast, a short but beautiful stretch of coast from Argelès-sur-Mer to the border with Spain. It’s the sort of place where camera memory cards fill up quickly – there are glorious views or pretty cobbled street around every corner. Despite the overbearing tourism, we quickly fell into a routine of morning swims, lazy lunches and evening strolls.
Our routine was partly a result of the pattern of tourism. The town was quiet in the morning. We would go to the local boulangerie for bread on our way to one of the town beaches. After a swim we’d head back to the apartment for breakfast, before having an explore around town. Things got busy by lunchtime and in the afternoon it was packed. This was also the hottest part of the day, so we stayed indoors until it was time for an apéro.
We had a full week in which to perfect our routine. By the time it came to leave it felt like we’d been in Collioure for several months. I’d go back in a heartbeat. The town isn’t large, so missing the very prominent sights is near impossible: the tremendous Château Royal de Collioure, Église Notre-Dame-des-Anges with its attached clocktower, and Chapelle Saint-Vincent.
The historic centre of Collioure is reflected in the waters of the bay, and the whole town is backed by the foothills of the Pyrenees. Thanks to the strategic location close to the Spanish border you can see several forts on the tops of the hills. A walking circuit to the forts takes you through sprawling vineyards that climb up the steep hillsides. The views over the town and ocean are spectacular.
Away from the harbour and beaches, where most people seemed to spend their time, you can wander the steep, narrow, car free streets that can often be tourist free. These streets and lanes give a real feel for what Collioure must have been like when it was still a humble fishing village, albeit one already famed for its celebrated anchovies. There is still an anchovy factory in the town.
Walk east or west along the craggy coastline and you are guaranteed to find yourself on high cliffs and in lovely inlets. It’s not the easiest of walking but it’s magnificent, and you can just plunge into the water to cool off. If this wasn’t enough, Collioure served up good food, including a prawn ceviche in lemongrass infused coconut milk with pomegranate seeds at L’Arbre du Voyageur that will live long in the memory.
The town is also famed for its artistic associations. Drawn by the sublime light, Collioure attracted some of the 20th century’s most famous artists. Henri Matisse, André Derain, Pablo Picasso, Charles Rennie Mackintosh and Georges Braque are just the best known. There is an art trail that spotlights some of the most famous paintings of the town. It still attracts artists today and there are numerous galleries throughout the town.
Collioure was also our introduction to Catalan France. This area has a shared culture and history with its more famous cousin in Spain. It’s a history that’s heard in the language and proudly displayed in the yellow-and-red Catalan flags flying alongside France’s tricolour. It becomes more pronounced the closer you get to the border and is a reminder that Europe’s history has left some messy borders.
