It is almost unthinkable today, but Carcassonne’s massive and imposing fortifications came very close to being demolished in the 19th century. After decades of neglect, the Cité as it is known had fallen into a miserable state of disrepair. A decision was taken by the French government to do what wars and sieges could not, destroy its mighty walls and demolish its buildings.
In retrospect, that would have been one of the great acts of historical vandalism. Luckily, there were people across France who recognised Carcassonne’s historical and cultural value. Add local outrage and a nascent historical restoration movement, and momentum to save the Cité gathered pace. The well known architect, Eugène Viollet-le-Duc, was commissioned to oversee the restoration.
Admittedly, it took until the 1960s for the work to be completed, but it saved perhaps the finest and most complete set of medieval fortifications in Europe. UNESCO gave it World Heritage status in 1997. The Cité sits on an isolated hill, commanding views over the countryside and the newer part of Carcassonne, the Ville Basse (itself dating to 1240). It’s truly impressive, so too is the history behind it.
The Romans were not the first people to live and fortify the hill that would become the medieval Cité of Carcassonne, but it was a strategic stronghold for them from around 100 BC. It would remain so until the collapse of the Roman Empire in 476 AD. The Visigoths inherited the town and strengthened the fortifications, adding the first castle inside the city walls.
After a forty years period under the control of the Moors, who had crossed the Pyrenees from Al-Andalus, it became a Frankish fiefdom under the control of Pippin III (the Short) in 752. That would prove to be the last time Carcassonne’s defences were breached. Throughout the medieval period layers of fortifications were added to the town, until the double-walled defences extended for almost 3 km and incorporated 52 towers.
By the 13th century it had become a different type of stronghold, for the religious beliefs of the Cathars. Seen as heretics, the Catholic Church launched a crusade against them. Carcassonne surrendered to the crusaders in 1209. Its ruler, Viscount Raymond-Roger de Trencavel was arrested and likely murdered. A siege led by his son to retake the town in 1240 failed, after which the entire population was expelled by the French king.
The Cité became an important part of French defences against the Kingdom of Aragon, until the 1659 Treaty of the Pyrenees moved the border westwards and made Carcassonne’s mighty walls obsolete. Its long, slow decline only ended when Viollet-le-Duc began the restoration work. All of that history is bundled up in a town whose former inhabitants returning from their 13th century expulsion might just recognise.
The reality though is that they would only recognise it from outside. Inside the walls it is a playground for mass tourism. On our final day there we decided to take a walk through the surrounding countryside rather than venture back onto the city. Carcassonne sits at the heart of France’s largest wine producing region and is surrounded by vineyards. It was a lovely walk with fabulous views of the town.
Leaving through the hugely imposing Porte Narbonnaise and passing a statue of Dame Carcas, whose likely fictional exploits saving the city from a Frankish seige in the 8th century are said to have lent Carcassonne its name. We were soon walking amongst vineyards. Our route took us through rolling countryside, and into an area of wooded hills far from the crowds of the Cité.
It was a peaceful and attractive walk, with lots of birdsong and butterflies, but no people. It was also very hot. We were glad to finally arrive back in the Ville Basse to claim a well deserved beer.
