Stepping off the train in the Belgian coastal resort of Knokke, the skies were a leaden grey and the temperature a few degrees colder than Brussels. Foreboding weather was fitting for cycling the Dutch countryside of Zeeuws-Vlaanderen. In the 16th and 17th centuries this was one of the most heavily defended parts of Europe, and front line between Spain, who controlled this area, and Dutch rebels fighting a war of independence.
The Flemish-Dutch landscape is very flat and crisscrossed with canals and dikes, so the vast network of forts and bastions were dug into huge earthworks. Towns and villages were ringed by star shaped fortifications. Centuries later these massive constructions are still clearly visible in the landscape. Built by both the Dutch and Spanish, they are known as the Spanish State Defence Lines, or the Spanish Lines.
To understand the landscape and unusual national borders of this area – this part of the Netherlands has no land border with the rest of the country – it helps to understand the dynastic ambitions of Europe’s monarchies and most powerful families, set against the social, political, cultural and economic transformations that 16th century Europe was going through.
The economy was booming. European ships were sailing the globe, gold and silver flowed from the Americas, spices, silks and other valuables from the Far East. Immense fortunes were made, enriching monarchs and merchants alike. Cities became powerful, their interests often at odds with the ruling dynasty. The population was growing rapidly and the Reformation gave momentum to radical social change and national identity.
This set the Protestant Dutch on a collision course with Europe’s most powerful family and upholders of the Catholic faith, the Habsburgs. Rulers of Spain and the new Spanish Empire in the Americas, they also ruled the Holy Roman Empire, covering Austria, much of Germany, and bits of Eastern Europe and Italy. The Habsburgs were at the height of their power.
The epic struggle of the Dutch to liberate themselves from Habsburg rule would take decades and two overlapping conflicts, the Eighty Years’ War and the Thirty Years’ War. Both ended in 1648 and would result in an independent Dutch republic, while modern-day Belgium remained firmly under Habsburg rule – at first the Spanish branch of the family and later the Austrian branch.
I don’t know if that history explains why the roads are so much better in the Netherlands, but the difference is immediately noticeable when you cross the border. I cycled around the marshy Zwin inlet, now a nature reserve, into the Dutch village of Retranchement. It’s literally named after a type of fortification, and played a critical role in the Dutch defence of the Scheldt estuary and the approach to Antwerp.
There was vicious fighting here in 1944 when the Canadian army liberated this area from the Nazis. You can still see concrete bunkers and gun emplacements. Retranchement is a pretty place with a 17th century windmill and lots of fortifications. A few kilometres away, Sluis is one of the best preserved fortified towns in the region. It’s surrounded by earthworks and a defensive wall, and in the centre is the Belfort.
Built in the 14th century, the Belfort is unique in the Netherlands. You can spot a figure high in the tower, Jantje van Sluis, a mechanical bell ringer. Legend states that in 1606 Spanish forces waiting outside the city were to attack when the clock chimed. Luckily the clockmaker was drunk and forgot to wind the mechanism. No chime, no attack, and the wooden figure became known as the Hero of Sluis.
Nearby Aardenburg is the oldest town in Zeeland province: close to the 10th century Sint-Baafskerk are the remains of a Roman fort. In the church grounds is a statue of Petronella Moens, a blind writer who fought for women’s’ rights and against slavery. Aardenburg is known as Kikkerstad – Frogtown – due to green uniforms worn by the local band. There’s a fountain featuring large frogs and even a frog museum – unvisited, for now.
I cycled past huge earthworks extending north from the town, my route heading through uninspiring Oostburg towards the coast. The beach resorts on the Dutch side of the Zwin inlet were surprisingly busy for the time of year and weather. I didn’t have time to enjoy the beach though, it was back to Knokke and the train to Brussels.
Thoroughly enjoyed this, well done
Thank you. It was a very enjoyable cycle!