Namur deserves to be much higher up the list of places to visit in Belgium. It may not have the medieval appeal of Antwerp, Ghent or Bruges, but its small historic centre has attractive cobbled lanes, buzzing cafes spilling into the streets and squares, riverside walks overshadowed by a once mighty citadel, not to mention artistic treasures found in understated museums and galleries. It’s a truly lovely place.
That Namur is such a pleasant town might surprise anyone familiar with the history of industrial decline that has blighted many of Wallonia’s major urban centres. Namur seems to have shrugged off the struggles of the second half of the 20th century, and today gives off a refreshingly genuine vibe to the outside world. What surprised me most is that it has been three years since I last visited.
We were lured to Namur by a photo exhibition of iconic American photographer, Vivian Maier. Unknown during her lifetime, Maier is considered one of the great 20th century photographers. Her story is remarkable: born in New York City to European parents, she worked as a nanny but her passion was photography. After her death in 2009, her vast and never exhibited collection of photos was saved mostly by chance.
The exhibition of fifty of her pictures and some of her Super 8 videos was at Le Delta, a fun cultural space that has a rooftop garden. After viewing the exhibition, you can pull up a deckchair and admire the view of the spot where the Rivers Sambre and Meuse meet. The strategic location at the confluence of the rivers played a central role in shaping the history of Namur, and has put the city at the centre of European history.
We walked along the attractive waterfront and crossed first the Sambre and then Meuse by a wonderful new(ish) pedestrian bridge. The view of the Namur Citadel from the south bank of the Meuse is gorgeous. The citadel has a fascinating history dating to at least the 3rd century and the Romans. In the Middle Ages it grew into a massive fortress, Napoleon referred to it as ‘Europe’s biggest anthill’.
Most of what you see today though dates from the post-Napoleonic period when Namur was part of the Netherlands. We got to see it up close as we clambered up the steep stairs from the river into the heart of the fortress. It is not an easy climb on a hot and humid day. The views though are worth every drop of sweat. The most exciting way down from the citadel is to take the cable car back to the Old Town.
We ate lunch in the buzzing Place Maurice Servais, amusing ourselves as a hen party tried to rope strangers into the dares and challenges the bride has to complete. It was a reminder that Namur is no sleepy backwater. As well as being the capital of Wallonia and hosting the regional parliament, a large student population adds energy. There is a street of student bars on the way towards the train station.
We strolled through the busy streets to the Cathédrale Saint-Aubain, a massive lump of a building that needs a good clean, and which is surrounded by a car park that should really be a car free square. The cathedral is almost as disappointing inside, but there was a fabulous wildlife photography exhibition that cheered up the interior. We decided that was enough wildlife and gave the Félicien Rops museum a pass.
I’d visited the museum before. While his scathing social commentary at Belgium’s social and economic order are writ large in his work, the obscene and vaugely pornographic work that scandalized contemporary society – and can still draw a sharp intake of breath today – seemed a bit much for a relaxing afternoon. We headed instead to the best bar in town*, the friendly Le Chapitre, for a glass of something local.
* in my opinion and not inconsiderable experience
