At times it felt like it would never end, yet when the final day of my walk along the South Downs Way dawned, this mini adventure seemed too short. The final 31km of the walk lay ahead before I reached my ultimate destination, the seaside town of Eastbourne. In a repeat of the experience in Lewes, I arrived completely soaked after getting caught in one final downpour. Almost within touching distance, Eastbourne was illuminated in the sun.
The day started very differently. I had arrived in West Firle the previous afternoon and had a relaxing evening watching the local cricket team and eating dinner in the excellent Ram Inn. I was staying in a remarkably cosy shepherds hut next to a paddock. As the sun rose I woke to the sound of birdsong, made a cup of tea and went outside to enjoy the tranquility. An inquisitive horse came to say hello and all was well with the world.
West Firle is an interesting place. Its history dates back to the Saxons, then it was given to William the Conqueror’s brother. The Domesday Book of 1086 recorded it as a valuable property. Today though, it is remarkable for being privately-owned by the same family for over five centuries. The Gage family took ownership in 1476, and the current Viscount Gage still owns 90 of the 110 houses in the village as well as most of the land.
The Gage family live in Firle Place, a large 15th century manor house. One advantage of this arrangement is that Firle is conspicuous by the lack of modern development and it retains the charm of a village from a century ago. It feels different and special, like you’ve wandered into a time capsule. Even the cricket club I’d been at the previous evening dates from 1758, making it one of the oldest in the country.
The village aura benefits from its association with the Bloomsbury Group. John Maynard Keynes lived here, while Bloomsbury luminaries Vanessa Bell, Duncan Grant and their daughter Angelica, are buried in the cemetery of the 15th century St Peter’s Church. Their house, Charleston, is a couple of miles away. I headed there for a visit before the walk to Eastbourne. After Charleston I walked on the Downs to Afriston.
It was perhaps only an hour or so before I arrived in Alfriston, but the views from the hills were tremendous. Before entering the village I passed Long Burgh Barrow, a Neolithic burial site dating back around 5,000 years. The tomb has views over the Cuckmere Valley to the sea. Alfriston itself dates to the Saxon period and, with good reason, is considered to be one of the prettiest villages in East Sussex.
I wandered down the main street and found my way into the Olde Smugglers Inne for a quick pint of Long Man Brewery Long Blonde. The brewery is nearby but wasn’t on my route today. After a short rest and a chat with the barmaid, I visited the 14th century Church of St. Andrew and the first ever National Trust property, Alfriston Clergy House. Then it was back onto the South Downs Way alongside the Cuckmere River.
It’s possible to take two different routes along the South Downs Way from Alfriston, since I’d walked the Seven Sisters coastal path at New Year, I chose to go inland. It was a lovely route that first took me to the area’s most famous sight, the Long Man of Wilmington. Carved into the northern flank of Windover Hill little is known about this enigmatic chalk figure, but it is one of Britain’s most recognisable.
After taking a detour to visit the Long Man, I climbed up Windover Hill and back onto the tops of the Downs. Every step was taking me closer to the sea, which was sparkling in the distance. Behind me ominous rain clouds were forming. I dropped down into the village of Jevington where a blue plaque on a building caught my eye. Normally, a blue plaque celebrates a famous person, this one celebrated a pudding.
Jevington was once home to The Hungry Monk, an upmarket restaurant that in 1971 is credited with inventing the Banoffi Pie. I’m not sure a diabetes-inducing pudding warrants a blue plaque, but there is no doubt that for at least a decade or two it was a national favourite. The restaurant closed in 2012, but the legend of the Banoffi Pie will likely live forever. I strolled down the road and back onto the South Downs Way.
It was a steep climb from the village onto the top of the Downs, but once up there I could see Eastbourne directly ahead of me bathed in sunlight. Glancing behind I discovered the storm clouds had almost caught up with me. It made for a dramatic sky despite the very strong chance I was going to get wet. I set off hoping to reach Eastbourne before the rain reached me, in the end it wasn’t even close.
I was caught in a literal cloud burst and took shelter under a tree. Even after the rain had passed, the road that took me into Eastbourne looked more like a river. Luckily, I came upon The Lamb Inn, a timber-framed pub dating to 1180. I stopped to absorb the history and a pint, and to dry out before going in search of my hotel.
Daily walking stats
Distance: 31km
Time: 7hrs 50mins
Beers consumed: 6 (in my defense I was celebrating the end of the hike)
