It was an imperceptible trickle at first, but the number of people walking past us into the centre of Llanes soon became a flood. Something was definitely occurring so we turned around and joined the flow. Crowds were lining the streets so we took our place amongst them at the edge of Plaza Parres Sobrino and waited – for what wasn’t especially clear but, as darkness fell, a tortured sound wafted through the air. The unmistakable sound of bagpipes.
A handful of police passed by telling everyone to take a few steps backwards. Excellent advice given what was about happen, but almost impossible as the crowd was several people deep. Then the pipers and drummers appeared, eight to a row and dressed in regional costumes. That would have been excitement enough, but moments later men also in traditional clothes came weaving down the street carrying a large Eucalyptus tree.
They swung the tree from side to side, often bashing into people in the crowd, and haphazardly made their way through town. This is La Magdalena, a fiesta that celebrates Mary Magdalene. On the first day the pipers and tree carriers parade around the town, ending with a bonfire and fireworks. Day two of the festivities starts early with a series of exceptionally loud fireworks to wake the entire town.
This is the big day, an effigy of La Magdalena decorated with red carnations is paraded around the town. The procession ends at the Capilla de Santa María de la Magdalena in Plaza Magdalena. Everyone in the parade – and many in the crowd – wear red carnations. There is more music, mostly women playing tambourines and singing. Children carry small ‘floats’ of flowers and plants on their shoulders.
It was a lot of fun and every now and again the peace would be shattered by yet more incredibly loud fireworks. La Magdalena, celebrated in July, is one of three big summer festivals. August’s festival of San Roque is followed by La Guía festival in early September. They are organised by societies of local people and there is allegedly a degree of rivalry for the most impressive fiesta.
Llanes and La Magdalena were a fabulous introduction to Asturias, a region that until recently has flown beneath the radar. The tourist mix is definitely changing, but mostly this buzzing port town in summer is the haunt of Spaniards escaping the heat of Madrid and the south. It’s easy to see why. It’s a small place, but combines an active fishing port with an historic centre and a rugged coastline dotted with pristine beaches.
History runs deep here, all the way back to the Palaeolithic era, but things really took off when Llanes was granted a town charter in 1225. The remaining medieval town walls and defensive tower are older though. In the heart of the old town is the 13th century Basílica de Santa María del Concejo. It stands in the Plaza Cristo Rey, which is ringed by a number of centuries-old town houses.
Walking through this area brings you to the still working fishing port and Los Cubos de la Memoria, a massive public art installation. The vast concrete blocks that line the breakwater of the port and protect against ferocious waves have been painted in vivid colours, some of which are related to the history of the town and the region. The harbour wall offers tremendous views along the coast and to the Picos de Europa.
The inner harbour runs for a few hundred metres into the centre of the town, where there are plenty of lively restaurants (at least in summer) and cider bars offering the chance to humiliate yourself trying to pour Asturias’ most famous beverage in the traditional style – holding the bottle high above the glass and pouring. All I can say is there’s a significant amount of wastage – even after many, many practice runs.
Thanks to La Magdalena, the whole of Lanes had a carnival feel to it and the three days we spent here were both relaxing and fun. When you add in the exceptional seafood – fresh from the ocean – you can understand why this place is so popular with Spanish visitors. It’s not just the food and culture though. People also come here for the beaches and to gingerly wade into the chilly waters of the Atlantic.
There are glorious, isolated beaches all along the coast, but Llanes has two pretty good beaches as well. Taking a dip after hiking one of the nearby coastal walks was wonderful. If you needed another reason to visit, there are truly magnificent coastal routes either straight from the town or a little bit down the coast. Hiking them is to experience the very best this coast has to offer.
