Cudillero is one of the most picturesque and atmospheric places in Spain. I realise that is quite a claim, but it’s true. Viewed from above, a near perfect amphitheater of brightly coloured houses with red tiled roofs tumble down a steep hillside to a small square, beyond which lies the pretty port and the Cantabrian Sea. On a headland poking into the ocean, the Punta Roballera lighthouse stands as a witness to the perils Cudillero’s fishing fleet faces when at sea.
The village deserves its reputation as one of the prettiest in Spain. It is a tiny place, but maze-like narrow paths that weave up and down the hillside, and between houses, give the impression that it’s a lot larger. It shouldn’t be quite so easy to get lost in a place as compact as Cudillero, but I managed it several times. Luckily, when you pop out from between the houses you get lovely views and can reorient yourself.
Exploring the village involves steep climbs up and down the hillside. It is exhausting, but worth the effort. The panorama over the town and out to sea from the several miradors is quiet literally breathtaking. That there are few traditional attractions in the village – some artisanal shops and galleries – is unimportant. Cudillero is the attraction, and a few days here found us slipping into a quiet rhythm.
By rights, Cudillero should be overwhelmed by tourism. There are a lot of day trippers, but mornings and evenings feel remarkably relaxed. People come for lunch, walk around and leave. The fact that the village is physically constrained by its geography means that tourism is also constrained. No large hotels and the car park is a 20 minute walk. It helps that there isn’t an accessible beach. For that, drive along the coast.
There is something to be said for the lack of distractions. A evening of local seafood, and a few glasses of Asturias cider, followed by a stroll along the harbour wall with views over the ocean is a panacea to modern life. The harbour is home to a number of small fishing boats that can trace their heritage back to the founding of the village in the 13th century. While tourism is now a major industry, fishing is still important.
In centuries past, Cudillero was an isolated place. This forged a distinct culture as well as a local dialect, pixuetos. The journey here overland would have been difficult. Even today it feels less accessible than other towns and villages along the coast. Like its houses, the focus is towards the sea not inland. This connection to the sea is reflected in the houses, painted with left over of paint from fishing boats.
Given its size, it’s surprising that a hundred years ago Cudillero had one of the largest fishing fleets in Asturias. Not so today. We stayed in what was once a fisherman’s cottage. Narrow, with stairs so steep that it reminded me of a lighthouse, from the top floor bedroom the views were fabulous. You just had to be careful not to whack your head on the old wooden beams while climbing the stairs.
Away from the main square, Plaza de la Marina, with its tourist-focused restaurants, the traditional life of the village can still be found in the narrow lanes, especially in the area behind the Iglesia de San Pedro. Here washing dangles from lines strung between houses over the streets, the smell of cooking food wafts through the tightly packed space, and residents at their windows greet passersby.
It’s a reminder of a past that may not survive another generation. Most people I met in these back streets were old and many family homes have already been converted to tourism. Despite the presence of the fishing fleet, and the seasonality of tourism, the population is likely to decline further. That would be a shame but it wouldn’t be the first time Asturias had witnessed migration from its towns and villages.
Like many places in Asturias, over the centuries people left the hard life of Cudillero to seek riches in the Americas. Some returned and showed their wealth by building casas indianas. Above the town in an area called El Pito are several of these 19th century mansions. The most spectacular, Palacio de los Selgas, is known as the Versailles of Asturias. The tourist office failed to mention this fact so a visit will have to wait until our next trip.
