We were discussing cycling while having a beer in the park one day after work, when one of my colleagues asked what has become a life changing question. “Do you know about cycling by the numbers?”, she asked. Ever since, I’ve been planning cycling trips through the Belgian countryside using the wonderfully named Fietsknooppunten system. It’s so simple but so effective, although it doesn’t mean it’s idiot proof.
One Sunday, I set off on a cycle through Flemish Brabant and Limburg. I would start at one town, Tienen, and finish at another, Sint-Truiden, and pass through yet another, Zoutleeuw, that share an UNESCO World Heritage designation for their medieval belfries. In between, there was farmland and fruit orchards, historic villages, ancient château, as well as artworks and sculptures sitting in the middle of nature.
The province of Limburg has gone out of its way not only to make itself one of the most cycle friendly places in Belgium, but to lure people to use its cycle routes with wonderful works of art like the Floating Chapel and Reading between the Lines, a see-through church. Both sit next to the cycle path in places with great views. It’s thoughtfully done. I arrived in Tienen early and headed into the centre.
Tienan isn’t a big place but has a duo of Gothic churches, Onze-Lieve-Vrouw-ten-Poelkerk in the Grote Markt, and the massive Sint-Germanuskerk with its UNESCO listing. Both date from the 12th century and give you an idea of the history of the town. This includes the former 13th century begijnhof and its church, Paterskerk, which was sadly destroyed by fire in 1976. It’s now an atmospheric ruin.
Much earlier, the Romans made themselves comfortable in the rolling fertile countryside of this region, and there is plenty of Roman history to be found, including the minimal remains of a Roman villa near Borgloon at the top of an exceptionally steep hill. I passed through quiet countryside until I finally rolled into lovely Zoutleeuw: a place with a long history, immense church – Sint Leonardus with its UNESCO belfry – and a 16th century stadhuis.
Even without its pretty and historic centre, any town called Zoutleeuw, or Salt Lion, demands to be visited. Sadly, the origins of the name are less dramatic. Salt was added after the town was granted the rights to levy a salt tax on its neighbours, and the lion is probably a corruption of an old Germanic word. Leaving Zoutleeuw and Flemish Brabant behind, I entered Limburg and skirted around Sint-Truiden on my way to Borgloon.
The route was more undulating than I’d anticipated, and vicious sections of cobbles did not help. I passed by pear, apple and cherry orchards before stopping for a breather at Helsheavan, the Floating Chapel. Said to be suspended between heaven and earth, it is made from the wood of cherry trees that were lost to the Little Cherry Virus (a real thing). The church floats amongst lovely rolling countryside.
It’s only a few more kilometres to reach Doorkijkkerk, better known as Reading between the Lines see-through church. It’s a magnificent sight and brilliantly located, the artists have proven that adding 30 tonnes of steel to the countryside can add to its beauty. It’s absolutely fabulous. I sat under a tree looking across the landscape before setting off for the last, exhausted, hour in the saddle back to Sint-Truiden.
Just before reaching my destination I cycled into the grounds of Ordingen Castle. An early medieval castle that has seen its share of history, including being bombed by the Germans in 1940, it is now a hotel and on the day I arrived, wedding venue. Finally, after 80km, I found myself cycling up a steep cobbled street into Sint-Truiden’s Grote Markt. I sat at a cafe with a view of the stadhuis and its UNESCO listed belfry and ordered a local beer.
It had been a long but rewarding day exploring Flanders ‘by the numbers’. I was tired but the beer had a reviving effect, so I visited the 14th century Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekerk and the 13th century Sint-Agnesbegijnhof, the former medieval community of lay religious women. Sint-Truiden seemed like a place for a repeat visit, but for now I was glad to head back to the train station and Brussels.
A lot to see over a short distance.
It felt quite long to me!