Dendermonde is an attractive town of around 45,000 people sitting at the intersection of the Rivers Scheldt and Dender. For a small place it has a big history dating back to the granting of a town charter in 1233. One look at the medieval buildings on the Grote Markt tells you that this was once a wealthy and important place. It even boasts two UNESCO World Heritage sites: the city hall and belfry, and the beguinage that housed a female lay religious community for seven centuries.
What you see today though isn’t entirely authentic. In the opening weeks of the the First World War this quiet Flemish town became the scene of appalling destruction. German armies were sweeping through neutral Belgium, at Dendermonde they were met by fierce if futile resistance from the Belgian army desperate to slow the German advance on France and the ports along the coast.
The Germans shelled the town for two days until the Belgian troops withdrew. The town was on fire, hundreds of buildings were destroyed, including almost all in the medieval centre, and worse was to come. As Belgian forces retreated, German troops entered the town, taking civilians hostage for deportation to Germany, then systematically burning the town, house by house, on the excuse that civilians had attacked them.
This was one of several incidents that became known as The Rape of Belgium. Unlike in places like Leuven, there was no slaughter of civilians but the destruction was immense. The town was painstakingly rebuilt and its ancient buildings carefully reconstructed. I’d arrived in the Grote Markt after cycling from Ghent along the River Scheldt, and grabbed seat at a cafe before setting off to explore.
Earlier in the day I’d cycled through a nature reserve with art installations near Ghent, then along the banks of the Scheldt towards the town of Wetteren. While it felt like cycling through the countryside, it’s hard to ignore all the signs of former industry that line the banks of the river. A reminder that for centuries the Scheldt served trade and industry.
It’s far more peaceful these days and has been turned into a car free cycle route. The old part of Wetteren sits on a small hill overlooking the river, it’s hard to miss the massive Saint Gertrude’s Church that towers over the town. It can be seen from miles away. A modern, purpose built cycle bridge crosses the river and brings you into the Markt next to the church.
In September 1944, this was the scene of yet more conflict as the Germans retreated in the face of Allied advances into Belgium. Bridges over the Scheldt were vital to the Allies. Most had been destroyed, but at Wetteren an old wooden swing-bridge remained. British troops captured the damaged but intact bridge only after a ferocious battle with German forces. Wetteren was badly damaged.
Continuing along the river, I arrived at a ferry crossing that avoided a large detour. I could see the ferry about 50 metres away on the other bank, but timetables must be observed. I had a 30 minute wait for it to make the 2 minute crossing. Once across I was soon in Dendermonde’s glorious main square, the town hall and belfry testament to the wealth made from manufacturing cloth in the medieval period.
The tranquil beguinage is a short walk away. This lay religious community was founded in 1288, it remained this way until 1975 and the death of Ernestine de Bruyne, the last beguine of Dendermonde. The gabled houses surround a large green space with a church at its centre. It’s truly lovely. On the way back to town I stopped at the 14th century Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekerk, home to two Anthony van Dyck paintings.
There was just time to soak up the atmosphere of the Grote Markt over a beer from the local Bosteels brewery – famed for its potent Tripel Karmeliet – before getting the train back to Brussels.
