The marshy wetlands of the Fagne de Malchamps high above the town of Spa may not seem like the most inviting of environments, the name means something like ‘swampy ground’ after all. Yet, it is a beautiful and tranquil place to spend a few hours walking, accompanied only by birdsong and a gentle breeze. The birdsong is significant, the high fens are a hotspot for an array of birds and a favourite place for birdwatchers.
The Fagne de Malchamps forms one part of a much wider heathland plateau consisting of heather, forests and marsh called the Hautes Fagnes. It’s a large open and windswept area that in winter can be pretty bleak, but on a sunny Spring day was a real pleasure. The Hautes Fagnes is also home to Belgium’s highest ‘mountain’, the Signal de Botrange, which comes in at a whopping 694m.
Fagne de Malchamps, Spa, Belgium
Fagne de Malchamps, Spa, Belgium
Fagne de Malchamps, Spa, Belgium
Woodland near the Fagne de Malchamps, Spa, Belgium
Woodland near the Fagne de Malchamps, Spa, Belgium
Fagne de Malchamps, Spa, BelgiumThe Hautes Fagnes is a protected national park. It has joined the Eifel hills area across the border in Germany, close to the lovely town of Monschau, to form the Deutsch-Belgischer Naturpark. While the Fagne de Malchamps is relatively open to the public, other areas are only accessible on guided tours. What adds to the joy of a visit to those areas with public access, is that they also have extensive raised wooden walkways.
At least they are a joy when they aren’t rotted and broken, forcing walkers to walk across very soggy ground. This is what awaited us as we ventured into the high fens from Spa. First though, the walk took us through delightful woodland areas that stretch from the outskirts of Spa to form a border around the Fagne de Malchamps. In a country that’s not exactly blessed with wild landscapes, it feels special.
Once out of the forest we followed a stoney path that led into the high fen and soon saw the start of the wooden walkway. This is presumably meant to allow access for walkers without damaging the fragile ground underfoot. Unfortunately, it looked like this section of the walkway hadn’t been repaired for a long time. Sections of it had collapsed into the bog beneath and we ended up with very wet feet.
The landscape though is beautiful – if a little windswept – and the walkway improved. We soon found ourselves having a rest next to a memorial commemorating a Second World War crash site of a British Lancaster bomber from the RAF’s 550th Squadron. The plane had been on the outward leg of a bombing raid on Düsseldorf when it was shot down by a German night fighter.
Still loaded with bombs, the plane ploughed into the ground in the middle of the Fagne de Malchamps killing all seven of its crew members. Today, a silent pool of water 8 meters in diameter marks the impact site in front of the stone monument. It is a poignant place and yet another reminder of how the war left barely any communities untouched.
We followed the wooden walkway south until it was replaced by a stone path. It seems the authorities have given up maintaining the walkways in this area. Maybe they are too expensive to maintain, but whatever the reason the impact on the landscape is not insignificant. The walkways seem quite in tune with the landscape, the stone footpath is little more than a grey scar across it. It’s a great shame.
Fagne de Malchamps, Spa, Belgium
Memorial to Lancaster bomber crew, Fagne de Malchamps, Spa, Belgium
Fagne de Malchamps, Spa, Belgium
Fagne de Malchamps, Spa, Belgium
Fagne de Malchamps, Spa, Belgium
Fagne de Malchamps, Spa, BelgiumWe knew we’d reached the end of the high fen area when a large wood appeared, skirting along its edge we came to the park headquarters where there is a museum (closed) and a 24m high observation tower that allows you to get a view of the Fagne de Malchamps. The tower is probably a good thing, but it can be seen across the flat fens and could be viewed as an unnecessary human intrusion on the landscape.
The stroll back to Spa took us through more woodland. On one trail we came across a snake sunning itself between the trees. At that moment a horse rider trotted up behind us and identified it as a young viper. We gave it a wide berth and went on our way far more alert than previously in case any adult vipers were loitering nearby. Back in Spa we sat outside the La Brasserie des Bobelines, ordered one of their homemade beers and relaxed in the Spring sunshine.
