If France and Germany were to have a love child, Strasbourg would be the result. On our first evening, a stroll through the almost too perfect cobbled streets of the Petite France district induced a form of geographic and cultural cognitive dissonance. Everyone was speaking French in what to all intents and purposes felt like every historic German town with timber framed houses I’ve visited. Petite France? Kleines Deutschland more like.
Sitting at a strategic point on the west bank of the Rhine that today defines the Franco-German border, the city has been hotly contested throughout history. For over four centuries it was a free city within the Holy Roman Empire, the loose federation of largely German speaking states. It then became French after the Sun King, Louis XIV, cunningly seized it during a brief period of peace during his reign.
Strasbourg remained French for just less than 200 years until, in 1871, the Prussians defeated France and annexed both Strasbourg and swathes of Alsace. Out of the Franco-Prussian War came a united Germany and the city stayed in German hands until it was returned to France in 1918. Occupied by Germany during the Second World War, it was symbolically liberated by French troops in 1944.
Strasbourg’s history and position on the language border between German and French, has left an indelible mark, but conflict and changing allegiances are only part of the story. It is a fascinating, cosmopolitan and culturally rich place that seamlessly blends the best of both worlds. It boasts a host of European Union institutions and is home to France’s largest university, lending a vibrancy that elevates it above its relatively small size.
It is also a city that is people-centric. Much of its historic centre is pedestrianised and it has an enviable network of cycle paths. The gorgeous (if tour group-heavy) Petite France is crisscrossed with waterways as the River Ill splits to form the several islands on which Strasbourg is built, before flowing into the River Rhine. Emerging out of the maze of medieval streets, you’ll often find yourself on the river. This is a city of water and bridges.
The two rivers brought trade and great wealth to Strasbourg during the medieval period, so much wealth that when the original church burned down in the 12th century, in its place the city built the Cathedral of Notre Dame. The 142 metre high spire is remarkably elegant, as are the delicate carvings on the facade. The cathedral survived both World Wars without too much damage and still has most of its original stained glass.
The fact that the stained glass was rescued from war torn Germany by the Monuments Men, is just one reason the cathedral is Strasbourg’s blockbuster sight. But the whole of the well preserved medieval centre, with an abundance of medieval churches, is a delight to simply wander around. Today, its ancient buildings are filled with restaurants and gift shops, but it’s large enough to escape the daytime crowds.
We arrived on a hot and humid Friday evening at the end of July with a long weekend ahead of us. We walked the quiet streets before finding a table on the Quai de la Bruche next to one of the canals in Petite France. We ordered a late night meal and a glass of Alsace wine. Alsace is famed for its Crémant, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris. But there are some wines with distinctly German origins. Gewurztraminer anyone?
Strasbourg felt like a welcoming and relaxed place as we made our way through the narrow streets to the hotel. Yet, it is no surprise that here in 1792, during the violent upheaval of the French Revolution, French poet and soldier Claude-Joseph Rouget de Lisle, composed the anthem of the Rhine Army. La Marseillaise, as it is known, includes the blood curdling lines, “Ils viennent jusque dans nos bras, Égorger nos fils, nos compagnes!”
Love the opening statement, so apt!