Geneva has an enviable quality of life. It may not be the most affordable city to visit, but its location on the shores of Lake Geneva, nestled amongst three mountain ranges, is exquisite. It’s a city filled with parks, and walking along the lakeside on a sunny February morning the air was crisp and clean. On our second day, we set off early to join dog walkers and runners heading east into the Parc de La Perle du Lac and the Botanical Gardens.
The walk offered sweeping views over the lake towards the Alps. Famously, you can see Mont Blanc from Geneva, but the skies were a little too hazy for us to spot it. The route is dotted with sculptures that are worth a detour to view up close, the parks have formal grounds and pretty historic houses. It really is a lovely walk and exhilarating in the early morning. We eventually arrived in the Botanical Gardens.
The grounds and glasshouses were uncrowded and we wandered around in the peace and quiet before looping back to the ferry terminal at Châteaubriand. We had a 10 minute wait until the small yellow ferry arrived to whisk us across to the other side of the lake. It was lunchtime and we were headed to the funky Carouge neighbourhood. This fascinating and pleasant area centred around the Place du Marché feels like a different Geneva.
It’s an area that dates to the late 18th century and is a 30 minute walk from the medieval centre, but well worth a visit for the numerous independent galleries, cafes and restaurants. It is definitely gentrified, but feels relaxed and fun. We mooched around until we found a nice buzzing restaurant for lunch. Separated from Geneva by the River Arve, until 1816 Carouge was an independent town. Today, is has been absorbed by its larger neighbour.
We spent a little more time exploring the area, visiting small squares with churches and unusual statues. Were we to return to Geneva, this would be the area to stay. We grabbed a quick drink to fortify ourselves for the next part of the day, a visit to the Parc de Bastions and the Reformation Wall. The park is lovely and spacious, at one end there are giant chess and chequers boards, along one side stands the austere Reformation Wall.
The wall commemorates the 400th birth of John Calvin, whose severe rule as the leader of the Protestant church in Geneva was exemplified by his condemnation of fellow theologian, Michael Servetus. Calvin accused him of heresy and had him burned at the stake. The four main figures on the wall include three Frenchmen – William Farel, John Calvin nd Theodore Beza – but also features the Scottish theologian, John Knox.
If you’re an Irish visitor to Geneva you might be a little surprised to discover the wall includes Oliver Cromwell. The Lord Protector of the English Commonwealth’s conquest of Ireland in response to the 1641 Irish Rebellion, itself no stranger to the massacre of innocents, was brutal. Cromwell’s troops committed multiple massacres and banned Catholicism. His presence on the wall must raise an eyebrow or two.
Back in the Old Town, we spent a few more hours exploring the densely packed streets. The oldest part of Geneva is full of small squares, and intriguing nooks and crannies. There are also lots of independent shops and galleries that offer an alternative to the more blingy commercial centre between the historic centre and the lake. We took in the view from Terrasse Agrippa-d’Aubigné then headed to Roi Ubu for a local beer before heading home.
Visited years ago and being english it took me a while to realise lac leman is “our lake geneva”
Very true, one lake, two names. Or maybe a lake of two halves is more accurate!