In the appropriately insignificant village of Nil-Saint-Vincent-Saint-Martin, down a narrow grass track, stands a wholly underwhelming and virtually hidden monument. A collection of metal tubes in the shape of a pyramid marks the geographical centre of Belgium. This chronic understatement feels like peak Belgium. The landmark had attracted exactly zero other visitors on a Sunday morning, so I kept the sense of disappointment to myself.
Fortunately, the journey into the centre of Belgium was far more eventful and satisfying. The area between Gembloux, Louvain-la-Neuve and Jodoigne, in which I was cycling, is only a 45 minute train ride from Brussels. Yet, it feels like you’ve been transported back in time into the heart of rural Belgium. In the vast, open farmland between villages and small towns, I rarely saw anyone else.
I started from Gembloux train station, immediately got lost, and then found one of the excellent RAVeL network of cycle paths to take me to Perwez. I cycled past the elegant bell tower of the Église Saint-Martin before cutting across an area of open farmland towards the pretty village of Glimes. Most famous for its tumulus, a 15 metre high Gallo-Roman tomb, the outskirts of the village hide a real surprise.
The Abbaye de la Ramée is a beautiful and well preserved religious centre that for over five centuries was home to a community of Cistercian nuns. The abbey was connected to, and governed by, the even larger Abbaye de Villers. The first record of a community of nuns living near the current site dates to 1212. It seems they relocated in 1215 and began construction of their new abbey.
Like the Abbaye de Villers, its Golden Age came in the 13th century. In later centuries, the nuns were forced to flee to safety in Namur when it was regularly attacked and suffered large scale destruction. It was abandoned before being rebuilt in the 18th century. Then came the French Revolution and the permanent end to the religious community. Today, it’s a conference centre and hotel, but visitors can access the courtyard and grounds.
It is quite an amazing building, the massive medieval tithe barn is hugely impressive. I walked around the interior before taking a stroll around the fish ponds. There wasn’t another soul around. This was a small nunnery that ran a major agricultural enterprise. Today, it looks like many of the other square farms you see in this region, just far better preserved.
It was to another square farm, the Ferme de Mellemont, that my route now took me. It too was attached to the Abbaye de Villers, and presumably was managed by the nuns just a short distance away in Glimes. The route I was following came recommended by the Wallonian tourist authorities. It took me to Chaumont-Gistoux because it has a shop selling sweet and savoury tarts. It was a diversion I could have done without.
Some brutal hills stood between me and my next destination, Nil-Saint-Vincent-Saint-Martin and the centre of Belgium. As I entered the village, I caught sight of the Tiège windmill on a small ridge. It was built in 1834 and was still in use until it closed 1946. It is on private property these days and can’t be visited, but it is an attractive spot with lovely views over the countryside.
The village itself was otherworldly quiet, but had a couple of nice churches and a couple of square farms. I headed south towards the Château de Walhain. A picturesque ruin I’d been told was open to the public, but was in fact closed. Leaving this 13th century castle behind, I headed to Chastre. The village is home to the attractive 17th century Rose Farm, a square farm now used by the local council.
All that was left was to make my way back to Gembloux across a wide open plain and the train back to Brussels. I was too tired to explore the town, but it turns out Gembloux has an UNESCO World Heritage designation for its medieval belfry. I’ll have to go back some day.
That distinctly underwhelming monument for the centre of Belgium does indeed strike me as peak Belgium. It never seems to get less low-key weird, does it? The abbey is beautiful though so at least your riding efforts were rewarded.
Pleasure in the small things is how I think of Belgium. It’s all a bit Poirot enjoying an aperitif in a tiny glass. Just the one, never a second. The abbey was fabulous.