The gift shop of a museum is an unusual place for the kindness of strangers to reaffirm one’s faith in humanity. On a trip to Maastricht though, we were just about to buy two tickets for the Bonnefanten Museum, when a Dutch couple offered to add us as their guests on their Museumcard. We were surprised by their gesture, although possibly not as surprised as the staff who had just lost a sale.
Two tickets come in at €44, a not inconsiderable amount. We chatted to our new friends briefly, learning of their visits to the UK, and we spent our time in the museum feeling a little better about the world. The Bonnefanten is a fascinating museum. A mix of old and the ultra modern, it manages to pull off both. We were visiting the museum on our way back to the train station after a day exploring vibrant Maastricht.
When we lived in The Hague, Maastricht was an almost three hour train journey away and we only visited once during the Xmas fair. Stuck out on a narrow piece of land in Dutch Limburg bordering Belgium, it is much easier and faster to get to from Brussels. Stepping off the train on a sunny autumn morning, the history and prosperity of the city was immediate. The walk to the centre is a pleasant stroll that brings you to the River Maas.
Here you are greeted by the seven graceful arches of the 13th century Sint Servaasbrug that today only partially span the Maas. There was a time when the bridge had nine arches, but over the centuries it has gone through many iterations. The current one, with a metal section where two stone arches once stood, is a result of the Second World War. The view from the river bank across to the town is beautiful.
On the other side of the river, Maastricht’s history comes thick and fast. The Romans founded a town here in 50AD, and while there are traces of Roman Maastricht, most of the historic centre dates from the medieval period. Parts of the once massive defences are still visible, including the 13th century Helpoort, or Hell Gate, the oldest city gate in the country. The medieval city is still visible in the cobbled streets and small courtyards.
We often found ourselves alone in the narrow, atmospheric streets close to Helpoort. We spent a couple of hours exploring the Old Town, inevitably finding our way into the two main squares – the Markt with its 19th century Town Hall, and the Vrijthof, dominated by the Basilica of Saint Servatius. The basilica is said to be built on top of the grave of Saint Servatius who allegedly died here in 384.
A church has stood on this spot since at least the 6th century, and it contains dozens of ancient artifacts. From a distance, it looks like it is attached to the striking red tower next to it, but this belongs to the separate Sint-Janskerk. The 43m high tower was once dyed red by applying ox blood, today paint is used. After a stroll through the lovely parks just outside the old city walls, we went in search of a drink.
Next to part of the medieval wall we found Café De Pieter, a traditional bar where we had a beer and ordered bitterballen – obligatory when in The Netherlands, and these were excellent. Maastricht has many good bars, perhaps the most unique is the former Brouwerij Bosch. Founded in 1758, it’s now a volunteer run museum with attached bar. The beer is made off site, but the atmosphere is home grown.
Perhaps it’s the fact that Maastricht has only been part of The Netherlands for a little over two hundred years, following Napoleon’s defeat in 1815; or maybe it’s because this is where the idea of creating the European Union became a reality, but culturally Maastricht feels different to other parts of The Netherlands I’ve visited.
They have a phrase for that feeling in these parts, Mestreechter Geis, the character of the town and people that is impossible to put into words. It’s a difference underscored by its distinctive dialect, Mestreechs. Whatever it is that gives the town its unique identity, it’s likely to lure us back again and again.
