Walking the deserted streets of Winchester early on a Sunday morning, the omens were promising for my first day of hiking along the South Downs Way. Despite expectations, and the weather forecast, there were white fluffy clouds in a blue sky. That would change as the day wore on, but I was optimistic that I’d make it to my final destination, Ye Olde George Inn in East Meon, without getting too wet.
The South Downs Way opened in 1972. One of the earliest long distance trails designated as a national trail, it’s easy to see why. The tracks that follow the rolling chalk downs of Sussex and Hampshire have been used for thousands of years. A point underscored by the fact that the route passes Saxon and Norman churches and castles, Iron and Bronze Age hillforts and burial mounds, and even earlier traces of civilization.
Once outside of Winchester city limits, what struck me was how much birdsong there was and how often the route was infused with the scent of plants: wild garlic, white Hawthorn flowers and clover, to name a few. It is also very peaceful. It wasn’t long after crossing the M3 motorway that the sound of human activity faded away. I definitely saw more sheep than people over the six days.
One of the joys of walking in Britain is the absurd place names. As the delightfully named Cheesefoot Head proved, the South Downs is no exception. For most of the morning, the weather was fine and often sunny, but as I approached the small village of Exton on hard chalk paths through crop fields, the clouds started to gather. I stopped at St Peter’s & St Paul’s Church and ate my lunch on a bench in the tranquil cemetery.
As I strolled through the pretty village I felt the first drops of rain but, as luck would have it, Exton is home to a good pub. I stepped into The Shoe Inn just as the rain started to pour and thought I’d have a beer until it passed. It was still raining when I left, but lightly, and I couldn’t dawdle if I wanted to get to East Meon. Plus I was close to Old Winchester Hill, which many consider the true start of the Downs.
As I climbed upwards, I stopped at a memorial to soldiers killed in a plane crash during World War Two. On 4 April, 1944, a Stirling plane was towing a Horsa glider carrying 27 soldiers as part of an exercise to prepare for D-Day – this area was used heavily for that. In low cloud, at night, it hit a tree near Old Winchester Hill. The glider crashed and killed everyone on board. The plane crashed later, killing six aircrew.
As I approached the hillfort on top of Old Winchester Hill, there were birds of prey soaring and fighting overhead. I imagine in the Bronze Age that might have seemed like an omen, and so it proved. As I entered the hillfort the rain stopped and in the distance I could see blue sky. Old Winchester Hill is a special place, an Iron Age hillfort built around a Bronze Age burial site. It is between 3,000 to 4,000 years old.
The burial site has three round barrows and, more unusually, a pond barrow which is a circular depression in the ground. Sitting on top of a great chalk ridge, there are tremendous views over the surrounding valleys. It’s easy to see why this spot was chosen as a fortified settlement. It felt slightly magical to have the entire place to myself. I left through the eastern entrance and started the long descent into the neighbouring valley.
I was tired by this point but still had 8km to go before I reached East Meon. It was a bit of a trudge, but I finally reached a signpost that told me my destination was near. I left the South Downs Way for the night and headed into the village. I was staying in the village pub, Ye Olde George Inn, when I arrived I was greeted like an old friend and encouraged to take a seat and try one of their Badger Beers. I was in no condition to refuse.
Daily walking stats:
Distance: 31km
Time: 8hr 20mins
Beers consumed: 4
