This was the big one. Day 4 of the South Downs Way and the longest day of walking I had planned. The route from Steyning to Lewes would end up being 43km and took me over 10 hours. It was also the day when the incredible downpours I’d witnessed from the top of the chalk hills, would catch up to me. For the most part though, this was yet another glorious day of walking through beautiful landscapes and pretty villages.
Steyning was an inspired choice to spend a night on the route. An ancient town that has preserved many of its most attractive buildings, has a High Street filled with independent shops, and a couple of decent pubs. It’s also a friendly place. While taking a photo of one of the centuries-old buildings a woman came to chat. She had spotted the rucksack and as we walked we exchanged walking tales, and tips for pubs and restaurants.
I went to visit St Andrew’s and St Cuthman’s Church which legend has it is the spot where St. Cuthman built a church in the 8th century. The story goes that St. Cuthman was a shepherd who fell on hard times and was forced to go door-to-door begging, all while pushing his paralysed mother in a wheelbarrow. When the wheelbarrow broke he took it as a sign from God that he should build a church. That’s how stuff got done in those days.
The church you see today dates from the 12th century, but in the 9th century the body of Æthelwulf, King of Wessex and father of Alfred the Great, was buried here. He was later moved to Winchester Cathedral. During this period Steyning was a wealthy place thanks to the port on the River Adur. In a bizarre twist, Steyning’s wealth was one of the root causes of the Norman Conquest of England.
When King Edward the Confessor was in exile in Normandy he promised Steyning and its wealth to the Abbey of Fécamp. He also made other ‘promises’, including that when he died the crown would pass to William, Duke of Normandy. On his deathbed, Edward passed the throne to Harold Godwinson, who had previously sworn to support William. To rally support for his claim William turned to the church.
When Harold took the throne he refused to allow Steyning to pass into Norman hands, and William used this affront to the Abbey of Fécamp to get the Pope onside. William invaded England, defeated Harold at the Battle of Hastings in 1066, and became known as William the Conqueror. I learned all this as I drank a couple of pints of Bishop’s Finger in the Chequer Inn, a 15th century coaching house on Steyning High Street.
I’d have happily spent a bit more time in Steyning but the call of the South Downs Way had me up early and heading back onto the chalk ridge above the town. The day started sunny, but by the time I was walking around Steyning Bowl, a natural amphitheatre in the landscape, there was a light rain. This took the edge off the scenery, as did the large outdoor pig farm that was strung along the hilltop.
Luckily, when I arrived at the Saxon Church of St. Botolph which sits in the valley close to the River Adur, the sun burst through the cloud. A sleepy spot today, 700 years ago when the river was navigable this would have been a bustling area. I crossed the river and there was a steep climb to the top of Beeding Hill. The views were worth it. From here I was on the top of the Downs until I reached the extraordinary Devil’s Dyke.
The Devil’s Dyke valley is Britain’s longest, deepest and widest ‘dry valley’. Legend states that the Devil dug it to the let the sea in and drown converts to Christianity. That might be true, or it might have been formed 10,000 years ago in the last ice age. Either way, the views over the Sussex Weald led artist John Constable to declare it ‘the grandest view in the world’. Perhaps not, but the panorama is pretty special.
As well as the views, there was once an Iron Age hillfort here, although it’s tricky to spot the earthen ramparts today. The whole area is managed by the National Trust, as is Saddlescombe Farm in the valley. There’s evidence that the farm has been in use since the Bronze Age. Today, it is farmed using a regenerative farming system that is restoring the land back to species rich grassland. There’s a nice cafe in the farm.
A little later I arrived in Pyecombe and entered the churchyard of the 12th century Church of the Transfiguration. As I did there was a tremendous downpour. Luckily the church was open and the nice people running it said the kitchen and bathroom were available to use. I waited until the rain ceased then left through a Tapsel gate. Unique to Sussex, the gate is a quite brilliant invention.
The weather cleared as I walked up to Ditchling Beacon. The highest point in East Sussex, this was the site of a beacon to warn of potential invasion. There are also the remains of an Iron Age hillfort. From here it was a long slog into Lewes. As the town came into sight, rain clouds the colour of deep bruises caught me. I was soaked, but the day was done. I could comfort myself with a beer and pizza in the fabulous The Lewes Arms.
Daily walking stats
Distance: 43km
Time: 10hrs 40mins
Beers consumed: 5 (Lewes is home to Harvey’s Brewery after all)
