The village of Saissac sits picturesquely on a rocky outcrop carved over millennia by the Rivers Vernassonne and Aiguebelle, at the point where they converge in the ravine that drops steeply beneath the village. It is an ancient place that first appears in written records as early as 958. There had likely been a fortified settlement here long before that, because Saissac commands a strategic entry point into the Montagnes Noires.
Saissac’s crowning glory, a once powerful castle that is now an atmospheric ruin, stands at the end of the village with a backdrop of wooded hills and magnificent views across the Plain of Carcassonne. It is a poignant sight that comes with a suitably dramatic history. The castle that you see today dates back to the 11th century. By the 12th century it had passed into the control of the Lords of Saissac.
In the early 13th century, Bertrand de Saissac was the protector of the infant Viscount of Carcassonne, Raymond-Roger Trencavel. Bertrand was also a sympathiser and ally of the Cathar religious movement. This would put him at odds with the Catholic Church and the King of France. When the Albigensian Crusade was sent by Pope Innocent III against the Cathars, Saissac and its castle became a target.
To avoid a bloodbath of innocent civilians – something the crusades were more than happy to inflict upon people they thought of as heretics – the castle was surrendered and ownership given to one of the crusaders. Over the centuries, it passed into the hands of numerous noble families until after the French Revolution, when it was abandoned and fell into disrepair.
That was aided by rumours of treasure buried somewhere in the castle. Treasure hunters flocked here and did their bit in demolishing parts of it. Ironically, during restoration work in the 1970s a treasure hoard of 2,000 coins dating to the 1250s was unearthed. This story is told in one of the two rooms containing exhibitions about the history of the castle.
The castle though was only one part of the defences of Saissac. As we began exploring the village we passed two medieval towers that were once part of the defensive walls, and which probably guarded an entrance gate to the village. They weren’t enough to protect the village from destruction during the 16th century Wars of Religion, but the castle remained untaken.
All routes lead downhill towards the castle, but the village itself is very pretty. Fewer than a thousand people live here today, and the old part of the village is very quiet. Shops and bars all seem to be found outside the old walls. The narrow streets are lined by shuttered houses, and they curve around the shape of the rock outcrop the village is built upon. There are a few small squares, but very few people were to be spotted.
At the entrance to the castle grounds is a small church that dates to a similar period, but which was rebuilt in the 17th century after burning down. Inside the ruined walls, the castle is smaller than it appears from a distance, but it has tremendous views over the surrounding countryside. It is a beautiful spot to wander around, even if there is nothing much to hold your attention for more than an hour.
After visiting Montolieu a few kilometres away, it is ironic that Saissac is so quiet and bypassed by many tourists. Michel Braibant, who had the vision to turn Montolieu into a Village du Livre, or Village of Books, lived in Saissac and originally wanted to see his vision realised here. People rejected the idea and he moved on. As did we toward the town that lent its name to the Albigensian Crusade: Albi.
