Albi is one of the most photogenic towns I’ve ever visited. It is absolutely gorgeous and was, without a doubt, the great discovery of our whole trip. If it was just superlative architecture and graceful bridges from different eras spanning the River Tarn, it would still be worth a day or two of anyone’s time. But it’s also a friendly place with a long and storied history, a couple of great museums and a vibrant food scene.
The town is dominated by the truly extraordinary Gothic Cathedral of Sainte-Cécile. Built between the 13th and 15th centuries in red brick – it remains one of the largest brick-built structures in the world – it’s unlike any cathedral I’ve ever seen. The sleek nave ends in an enormous tower that can be seen from almost everywhere in the city. The unusual design gives off the feel of a castle more than a church.
The cathedral was built as a response to the crushing of the Cathar religious sect during the Albigensian Crusade – named after the city of Albi despite there being a limited Cathar presence here – and it was clearly supposed to send an intimidating message to other would-be heretics by the Catholic Church. It sits at the heart of the Episcopal City of Albi, which became an UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2010. You can see why.
Up close, the cathedral is an imposing hulk of a building, it must have been awe inspiring to a medieval audience. The best views of it, and the town, are from the north bank of the Tarn or one of the three bridges that cross it. The cathedral merges with the Palais de la Berbie, a very grand palace for the Bishops of Albi. Honestly, the whole ensemble is little less than spectacular, especially at sunset when the brick glows pink and orange.
As befits an UNESCO designated town, much of the medieval centre is pedestrianised and it makes for a pleasant place to stroll around. There are numerous restaurants in the Place Sainte-Cécile, the main public space around the cathedral. Radiating out from the square are cobbled streets lined with centuries-old buildings, including some beautiful timber-framed houses. We loved it.
The only downside to Albi were the ferocious August temperatures. It hit 40ºC one day, and hung around the high 30s the rest of the time we were there. This imposed a routine on our days. We were staying next to the ancient Pont Vieux. In the early morning we’d throw open the shutters and let a cooling breeze into the apartment, then explore the town while it was still cool enough.
By mid-afternoon it was too hot to be in the streets, so we ate lunch, had a glass of wine at the wine stall in the Marché Couvert, and then headed home for a post-lunch siesta. We would only emerge in the early evening when the temperatures started to dip a little. Luckily, Albi was moving with the times and temperatures, restaurants stayed open late and we were even treated to some open-air entertainment.
Albi has good restaurants, and after visiting the Marché Couvert most days for bread, fresh vegetables and wine, it was clear that the local produce was top notch. The market building itself has been redeveloped – and presumably saved – so that you can pick up a few things for lunch or have lunch at one of the many stalls. Around the market are a few restaurants with outdoor tables.
It’s not a big place, at least the historic centre isn’t, but we managed to whileaway a few days, exploring a little more each time we went out. Thanks to a new pedestrian and cycle bridge, La Passerelle, that has been recently built alongside and slightly below the railway viaduct there was a pleasant loop we could stroll in the evenings. The views of Albi through the arches of the viaduct are fabulous.
The Pont Vieux was under renovation when I visited Albi two years ago. Seeing your photos, the result looks stunning!
It’s beautiful, especially in the early morning sun when it goes a deep orange/pink. A very impressive sight.